Have you explored the areas of ‘old’ Kanda?
Masaru Usui

Recently, I started looking at Sudacho and Awajicho area. It’s a very interesting place as there are many old houses from the Showa period of 1926-89. Luckily, this area escaped the bombing by the U.S during WWII which makes it an unusual place. I was told that the reason the area could escape bombing was that there was a Russian church, Nicolai-do, nearby. The Americans never bombed churches or hospitals.

I interviewed the master of Takemura, a traditional sweet shop called Oshiruki in Sudacho. Takemura makes a traditional Kanto Oshiruko. Small glutinous rice cakes (mochi) are placed in a kind of adzuki bean thick sweet soup. I enjoyed the taste. It was delicious!

Although the houses were still livable many were demolished in the bubble period in order to expand new real estate. However, a few houses escaped and are protected by their owners and the government for historical reasons. According to the master, the old buildings in the area were built after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. At that time, all of the houses in the area were destroyed by the earthquake. The building of Takemura in Awajicho is over 80 years old which is very old for Tokyo. It was built in 1929 and is authorized as one of Tokyo’s Selected Landmarks with 4 other houses in Sudacho and Awajicho.

Other old houses in the street give us an atmosphere of the Showa period. It’s just like using a time machine. Save your money and try the delicious noodles at Kanda Yabu Soba. This shop first opened in 1880 which means it is older than Takemura.

Sudacho and Awajicho are near the Manse Bridge between Kanda station and Akihabara station. The master of Takemura has been living there since he was born. He is 70 years old now. He is living alone now because his wife died and they never had children but his younger brother helps run the shop. He said demolishing houses and building new real estate was better than running his business if you only think about earning money. He also said he is just able to survive as they had few customers however, he does not think he needs much money.

I think to continue with a business like this is so hard for most people, but this family is doing it and saving a tradition with nearly the same menu since Takemura was opened.

Takemura is on the 1st floor (ground floor) with living quarters and a party room on the 2nd floor. - the specialty is as I said before, a sweet bean dessert called Oshiruko. The party room is also used as a club room for " Haiku ", a type of 3-line Japanese poem. The house is also used by television studios for drama series about twice a year as it is very difficult to find houses which were built in the early Showa period. In fact, the studios have asked many times to have more days of filming but the master will only allow its use on some Sundays and national holidays.

Takemura has many interesting old things and the atmosphere is special. They also have a Japanese-style room on the first floor and you should go there if you want to feel that you are part of a drama in the Showa period.

After hearing about the Russian church, Nicolai-do, in Ochanomizu, from the master of Takemura, I decided to pay a visit. It costs 300 yen to go inside. It is also very old for Tokyo. It was built in 1891 which means it is 119 year old. Can you imagine that! It was damaged in the Great Kanto earthquake in 1923 and then rebuilt but Nicolai-do is a magnificent church with some beautiful stained glass. There is a high-ceilinged hall and many chairs for the people who visit. Under the high ceiling, there is an unusual cross called an Orthodox cross. This is a different cross from other Christian crosses. It has another bar across the feet of the cross and I had never seen one before except on the Internet.

That church is mystic and interesting. I could not take any photos inside but it is an official cultural Asset so try to go soon.